![]() I will appreciate any ideas you may have. A rebuilt pump is several thousand dollars.Īnyone on this forum have any experience with this hydrostatic pump? I'd rather not loose my investment, but it is time to either fix it, or sell it for parts. They said it would be too dangerous - if not timed properly - will explode. The shop also discouraged me from trying to fix it myself. I wouldn't sell it to someone else without telling them what I know about it - just what I wish he had not done to me! Nice guy! A rebuild kit for the twin pump is around $1,000. ![]() I bought it from a local guy who (I found out later) had tried to solve the problem and decided to sell it instead. I am looking for advice on what to do with it. ![]() The loader is very strong and will lift the tractor off the ground, and if I only use it for a few minutes, it works very well. I brought it home and have had it several years. They discouraged me from repairing it as they thought it was too old, would cost too much, and that replacing the twin pump could cause one or both of the wheel motors to then go bad. I took it into a shop and they diagnosed it as having a bad twin pump. The problem is that once it gets warmed up, the drive motors don't have sufficient power to do any work. I tried it out - even drove it home and it seemed fine. It is in nice shape and runs like a champ. I bought a mid 90's Case 1840 Uni-loader skid steer. There is also a FSS (Fuel shut down solenoid) on the top of the injector head, should have a 12V signal to it when the key is turned on, if the wire has been dislodge, or the FSS is bad, you will not get any fuel to the injectors.I am new to the forum and looking for some advice. If no start then it could also be a bad battery, or starter.these cummins motors need to spin over pretty quickly to fire. I would change the fuel filter, fill it with diesel before installing it, then use the prime lever on the lift pump and prime the system really well, and see if it starts. Your no start issue could be a bad fuel filter, or bad fuel.very common on the cummins motors. If there IS an air temp sensor then it only gets a 12V signal until the air temp sensor reads 90*F (I believe) then the 12V signal is shut off. As mentioned it is powered by 12V signal.if there is no air temp sensor in the intake plate then it will require a constant 12V signal to melt the wax motor and have the timing come back from it's cold advanced mode. The Cold start motor is also called a KSB.which is the letters for the German translation of cold start solenoid. Some of the 4B motors came with VE IP's and some got the CAV industrial pumps (like mine). That is a Bosch VE injection pump on a cummins motor.4B. the important ones start out w/ 0 460 *** *** It reads cold or hot from the cooling and air system.Īs long as you have it out, get the #'s off the side of the pump hsg. its probably stamped on it somewhere, probably the hex area. If you want to test it, get some wire w/ alligator clips and connect 12 or 24v to it.ĭepending on the pump and engine is what determines the voltage. It moves VERY slow and takes about 3-5 minutes to fully push out. it gets air trapped behind it and then you have to burp it until the rod will collapse inside the housing. and it looks like someone has broken the back of the motor by pushing it WAY in to far. ![]() ![]() in the normal relaxed position it should stick out some.īasically, its a wax motor. That rod in the pic is WAY to far up in the housing. Once the housing heats up, it pushes the rod out, to cut off the advance/retard circuit to run normally. In the cold position, fully retracted up in the housing, the timing mechanism is in a state of advance or retard for easier starting. The housing heats up and pushs the rod that's in the center of the housing for normal running conditions. That my friend is called a cold start solenoid or CSD. ![]()
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